St. Stephens Basilica - details pictured here, including its ceiling, cupola, and a closeup of its gold-leafed art.
© Philip, Mirna, and Austin Thompson
Goulash, Kalacs, and Mulled Wine
2013 Thanksgiving Weekend
In Budapest
Prep Time
Realizing how
cold Budapest would be, we packed for the weather; and preparing our wallets for the trip, we devoted some time to memorizing the exchange rate. Hungarians weren't using the Euro, so we had to get some
Forints for the trip. Rate was around 200 per dollar. One Forint, were it possible to have held such an amount, would've been worth half a penny. The lowest denomination we were able to find was the 1000 Forint bill--about 50 cents. It was a lot like our first time in Italy (1994 - 1997), when the Lira's value fluctuated anywhere between 1200 and 1800 per dollar.
Szilágyi Dezso Square Reformed Church, Saint Anne's, St Francis of Sebei
A view eastward from our room
Sun sets behind the Buda Castle
Originally Two Towns: Buda and Pest
The city straddles the Danube Rivier and is the result of what were originally two distinct towns: Buda on the west bank, and Pest on the east. Pest is larger, touristy-er, and poorer. It's also where most people stay while visiting. Buda rises up several hundred feet within a short distances from the river bank, and all the buildings on that side seem a lot more dominating. Buda is much less accessible to pedestrians, and a cool way to get to the Buda Castle, Fisherman's Bastion, and St. Matthias is the funicular.
One of the many cool city maps
Grub Time in the Subzero Temps
Weather was cold and sometimes windy, but for two of our four days there it was nice and clear. Rained/drizzled one day, and heavy fog another. In all it was good walking weather, and there's plenty of walking to do in Budapest.
Our first day included a guided tour, and for throughout the trip we made good use of the Hop-on, Hop-off bus. Hop on, take a break, hop off, walk a mile or two. Works up an appetite!
Big highlight of this trip was the Hungarian cuisine (we did make an exception for our obligatory trip to the
HRC). Goulash, Hun Dogs (standard hot dogs with dried onions & shaved chicken bits), Mulled WIne, Dreher Lager, Kalacs, and lots of confectionary wonderfulness.
St. Elizabeth's (above and right)
The Elizabeth Bridge, the Margaret Bridge, the Chain, Pet
őfi and Liberty Bridges. And lots others we didn't see. The Chain Bridge is the town's most famed, but my personal favorite was the green, 'Budai rakpart' bridge.
The ones we explored were walkable - and a couple times we took advantage of that. They all offer gorgeous vistas.
The blustery weather, combined with trekking to, from, and over (a couple) of these bridges, made the experience strangely enjoyable. Maybe it was all the forralt Egri Bikavér ...
Vehicular traffic moved slowly, or if not slowly, carefully.
Then again, it might have been that their cars just couldn't go any faster..
Though it was cold, and thus normally perfect for dark and heavy brews, we stuck with Dreher. It just fit perfectly with the goulashes, virsli, bean soups, and other hardy dishes we enjoyed (and all the sweets).
On the other hand, with sweets (mostly kalacs) we'd have mulled wine. Being already Christmas season in Budapest, that stuff was everywhere.
Budapest is, by far, much more naturally photogenic than Europe's more popular capital-city destinations.
The western bank of the Danube, dramatically rising a few feet from shore, combined with no shortage of colossal & dramatic architecture on both sides, make for a photographer's dream.
A few minutes' bus ride, and you can get to the Citadel, the Fisherman's Bastion, or the Buda castle, and catch an endless supply of "money shots."
As you can see, even in cold, oft-overcast weather, any amateur photog can bring home smalltown prize-winning images from this marvelous city.
A schlocky, tacky, glorified meat cooler. Tourist trap 101.
Found in a dozen cities across Europe. But...ice bars are fun!
"Whaddya mean it's not noodle, bean & beef soup?"
We liked all the different goulashes so much that for the most part it was the centerpiece of every dinner. Every restaurant had a slightly different combination of spices, but they were all heavenly.
From our whopping four whole days there we learned that, in soup form (more on that in a sec), goulash isn't a thick, beef, beans & noodle concoction. It's more like a beef stew, or beef & veggie soup, with a few additional spices. Not my tongue is on fire spices; more like that's a busy combo of flavors spices.
Strangely (or maybe not), on two occasions the "goulash" we ordered was everything you'd use to make goulash, except the water. Same taste, same basic combination of ingredients and flavors. But instead of being soup, it was large platefuls of meat, veggies, and barley on the side.
(That last part must be an acquired taste - we didn't care for it much. We decided barley in liquid form is much better.)
This was called goulash ("Gulyás").
And speaking of tacky - the
local HRC, a regular destination . . .
. . with a sad little
collection of memorabilia.
Our first dinner in Budapest. I don't remember if Mirna was clowning, or if something
on the menu had her concerned. In either case, we left happy and full that night.
A little closer, Mirna & Austin
check out the entrance,
pose for Dad's benefit. (right)
Austin on the Chain Bridge, with
Buda Castle on the opposite bank
Mirna with Pest (and, prominently,
St. Stephen's Basilica) behind her
The Hungarian Parliament straddles
the eastern/Pest bank of the Danube
The city is safe to walk around after dark, even more so than most other large European cities (all of which, for the most part, are far better than any big town in the States, I'm sad to say). Most nights we trekked back to the river, explored both banks, and in general snooped around all the Christmas festivals the town had started that week.
The city was much bigger than we'd originally thought, was a lot cleaner than (ahem) our home at the time*, and the Hungarian people were friendlier than our already-high expectations. The town was in the midst of a major face lift, and yet still managed to seem amenable to tourism. Many of the old, gothic, communist structures were getting the freedom makeover, and at every turn it seemed we'd stumble on a fascinating emblem of a former Easter Bloc nation now free, actively moving to improve itself.
© Philip, Mirna, and Austin Thompson
Quartet who serenaded our first dinner
Well, I guess some of it was modern...
Bridges, Bridges, Everywhere
Above, the Budapest Icebar
Below, the Budapest Hard Rock Cafe